Gopher It - Baskets & All

Spring time and baskets are rollin’…into the ground. Gophers in the west (certainly around my home) have sprung from the womb and are seeking new territory. This means there’s a mass migration as each gopher tries to stake out it’s new home. Thus many gophers means plenty of damage to roots. In my neck of the woods, gardeners are “planting” wire baskets with the transplants inside. It seems to work, but not all the time. I lost an apple tree to a gopher who simply climbed over the wire and into a protected paradise of yummy rootlets. I spent hours in the USDA Ag. Library (the largest collection of ag. and hort. books in the country) looking for “the answer”. I finally found a report where the researchers wanted to capture live gophers. They built a “V”-shaped live trap with 10-inch-tall wire sides. The gophers simply crawled over the wire. Alas, my futile attempt at a four-inch exposure above the mulch didn’t save the apple tree. However, I learned a lot about roots after I dug up the roots of the apple tree. Nearly 90% were inside the two-foot wide by 24-inch deep wire basket. Most roots where eaten off just as they tried to leave the basket—as seen in the photo on the left. Here is one of the lone roots that escaped the greedy gopher mouths.

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Let me know what you think. Visit my web site to learn about my new book on drip irrigation and other gardening books. Thanks, Robert

Real Apple Roots

The line drawing on the left is from a book in 1978 that got me confused, curious, and started my research on how roots really grow. The drawing on the right shows how far roots travel from their trunk & beyond the dripline (canopy). The red circles are the driplines. (Based on my book: Roots Demystified, Change Your Gardening Habits to Help Roots Thrive.) The roots pictured here are of an apple tree. Look how the roots avoid the compacted soil and even the roots of another apple tree.

Let me know what you think.

Visit my web site to learn about my new book on drip irrigation and other gardening books.

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Root Bondage

Here’ a view from above of what’s left of an apple tree’s roots growing in a wire basket.

Wire baskets around here are becoming required planting additions for perennials, shrubs, and trees. I once had a wire basket protecting the apple tree in the photo. The wire was four inches above the mulch. That didn’t stop a gopher from climbing over the wire to be encaged with all those succulent roots. The tree leaned over and simply died.

As the photo shows [I’m the only person I know of that has excavated the roots as they grow when using wire baskets] very few of the roots got out of the basket to explore a bigger volume of soil. For practical purposes, this tree should have been treated like a container plant—keeping all the moisture, fertility, and mulch within the basket’s diameter. BUT, the wire must extend 6-12 inches above the mulch to have a shot at excluding these pesty critters. Such a wire basket is very hard to make and isn’t to be found commercially. Your up to your own to make a Rube Goldberg machine-made, anti-gopher basket .

However, wire baskets can work with smaller plants.

Please post a comment - I want to know what you think.

Visit my web site to learn about my new book on drip irrigation and other gardening books.

NOTE: The comments section at the bottom of the post has disappeared. Click on the "___ Comments" button or the title under the "Blog Archives". Thanks, Robert

The Myth of the Range of Tree Roots

The following is text from my book: Roots Demystified, Change Your Garden Habits to Help Roots Thrive.

The best book on the topic of fruit tree roots is The Root System of Fruit Plants compiled by a Russian named V. A. Kolesnikov. (As with most scientific papers, only initials are used for all but the surname.) Kolesnikov’s scientific papers appeared from 1924 until 1968, indicating that the USSR regime certainly valued his distinctive research.

Kolesnikov’s primary modus operandi for studying roots was the one he called “The Skeleton Method.” As with Professor Weaver’s studies, this method entailed precise excavation of the roots. In imitation of archaeological techniques, shovels were used first, followed by scoops and, eventually, brushes. This approach preserved more fine root hairs during excavation than the most common practice of using water forced from a hose, or even more than simple washing of the roots.

Kolesnikov’s conclusion is that fruit tree roots grow one-and-one-half to two and even three times the width of the foliage above them. More amazingly, he states that this ratio is maintained throughout the life of the tree, regardless of the rootstock, species, and soil (my emphasis added). This is clearly seen in the apple tree illustration depicted in the left side above. (Click on the image to get a better view.) Each type of fruit tree maintains a slightly different ratio of root mass to canopy. The best place for water, fertilizer, compost, and mulch is beyond the foliar dripline (canopy). This applies to most trees, not just fruit trees. The roots of fruit trees are studied more than ornamental or native trees because they are economic crops.

The illustration on the right is the misguided imagination of a graphic artist. Pretty to look at, but dead wrong. The roots in no way mirror the above-ground foliage.

The relationship of the width of a tree’s root-mass to the amount of moisture it should receive is critical. Applying water near the trunk is wasteful in any climate. In a climate that routinely experiences short droughts of a month or so up to six months (as in parts of the Southwest), drip irrigation is the most efficient way to distribute water to an entire root system.

The climate, however, need not be arid for trees to benefit from drip irrigation. In a study of established pecan trees in humid Georgia, trees with added drip irrigation showed a 51% increase in yields.

It's nuts to irrigate any other way.

Please post a comment - I want to know what you think.

Visit my web site to learn about gardening books.

NOTE: The comments section at the bottom of the post has disappeared. Click on the "___ Comments" button or the title under the "Blog Archives". Thanks, Robert